by Sanj Patel
In the vibrant and ever-evolving landscape of London’s fashion scene, few brands have managed to carve out a niche as distinctive and influential as Percival. Founded by Christopher Gove, the contemporary British label has emerged as a go-to staple for both discerning Londoners and A-list celebrities.
The brand's unique blend of traditional tailoring with contemporary design elements has garnered a dedicated following, from everyday men looking for quality and style to Hollywood stars seeking standout pieces. Percival’s rise to prominence is a testament to Gove’s vision, passion, and unwavering commitment to subverting the classics while maintaining a deep respect for tradition.
Gove’s journey began with a personal quest to find fulfilment beyond the confines of a decade-long career in marketing. Feeling unfulfilled, he ventured into the world of fashion with a single garment: a yellow wax jacket inspired by a photograph of himself. The jacket, made from custom yellow wax cotton provided by British Millerain, became the foundation for Percival’s ethos—combining utilitarian functionality with a playful and unique aesthetic. The brand’s first creation, the Wax Mac, was sold to friends, setting the stage for what would become a beloved menswear imprint.
From its humble beginnings, Percival quickly gained momentum. A key turning point came when Gove’s friend encouraged him to create a full collection. “A mate of mine, who I think was at ASOS at the time, told me, ‘If you made a range, I would stock it,’” Gove recalls. This led to a collection that also caught the attention of Topman General Store, catapulting Percival into the fashion spotlight. However, the challenges of the wholesale model soon became apparent, prompting Gove to pivot to a direct-to-consumer approach. This strategic shift allowed Percival to thrive sustainably, leveraging platforms like Shopify and social media to build a loyal customer base.
Reflecting on his background, Gove notes, "I was in marketing, which has always been super commercial. Typically, it is all about communicating ideas to sell; it really is the most capitalist job you can have if you look at it that way." Transitioning from being an illustrator to a graphic designer and eventually an artist designer, fashion seemed a natural extension. His time at an agency in Holland Park offered deep insights into the traditional fashion mindset. "It ticked all the stereotypes. It was bitchy, exclusive, and judgey. I don’t care who says what, that is what fashion is like. I was there for a year and a half and hated it, but I gained a good insight into how the industry can be."
This insight fueled his desire to create a menswear brand that felt authentic and catered to men's lifestyles. "Even now, the way we run things is very organic; if you have an idea, I want to hear it," Gove explains. This approach allows for a lot of flexibility and creativity within the brand. "We can do a lot of things around football because it’s something I enjoy. We can make some kits and show a few games in the store. Similarly, I like Negronis. I like cocktails, not beer. So that means we can have a few cocktails in the store. It’s a contemporary and relevant mindset catered to a contemporary male consumer."
Subverting classics is a key philosophy for Percival, both aesthetically and ideologically. "It’s about going against the idea of what classic fashion should be," Gove explains. Percival takes traditional garments and puts them through a contemporary lens.
"For example, we’ve got this jacket called the Anderson Raglan, it's just a standard wool overshirt, but it’s also got some cool features like waterproof zips, and big pockets so you can put a bottle of wine inside and not carry it with your hands." This approach resonates with men who appreciate knowing the specs of their garments, similar to how they might discuss a new car or piece of tech.
When it comes to designing collections, Gove draws heavily from his background in graphic design and illustration. "At the minute we are doing Pre-Winter 2025 which comes out in May next year. I basically found an old sailing manual from the 1920s, which has then formed the idea based around the British seaside during that time. It always starts from there and then snowballs," he explains. Balancing creativity with commercial viability is crucial. "These days you have to meet data on one side and creativity on the other, and you then meet in the middle and have a relationship. Ultimately we are a commercial brand, and I think we need to have that commercial ubiquity because I want to create a business and sell things."
Cultural trends and shifts play a significant role in shaping Percival's designs.
"I think it's knowing when to lean into trends, and it’s something that we have maybe struggled with. Menswear trends move a lot slower than women's. It’s all about knowing what the silhouette is, and keeping things relevant," Gove remarks.
A significant milestone for Percival was the opportunity to create a suit for Gareth Southgate. "We didn’t have much suiting development at the time, but it's now one of our biggest categories. When we had the opportunity to work with Gareth, it was because he liked our brand, and it really came to life through our investor," Gove recalls. Meeting Southgate at his hotel in Wembley, they had an honest conversation about what he wanted. "Initially, he didn’t know if he wanted to lose the waistcoat. He wanted to be less hot but still look smart."
Percival had already begun researching suits from the Italian Riviera, namely quarter-lined or unlined styles with super lightweight fabrics. "So, we got this idea of a classic British suit through an Italian style filter," Gove explains. The result was a highly breathable, unlined wool suit with a knit polo underneath. During a pitch at Southgate's house, his wife firmly opposed the idea of a waistcoat. "To be fair, we agreed. In the end, he said he did want a suit and tie in case they won or got to the final, so we made a really nice breathable white shirt and a knitted polka dot tie."
The collaboration with Southgate exemplifies Percival's appeal to a broad audience.
"There are millions of lads out there that are looking for something cool, but not too scary. To be honest, for too long, men have not been bothered. But now it's about putting the effort in, curating yourself, and not being lazy. I think our Forest Green Linen Suit has been a real triumph in that category."
Celebrities such as Chris Evans have also been seen wearing Percival. High-profile endorsements like Evans’ have further cemented Percival’s status in the fashion industry. "Tom Holland is one of the few exceptions who comes into the store, but I haven’t ever been there when he's been in," Gove mentions.
Despite its ongoing successes, starting Percival came with challenges. "When we opened our first store in Berwick Street, we didn’t make any money for about two and a half years. We were surviving on a shoestring, and I think that my two business partners and I were working so much that the brand became an afterthought," Gove reflects. The Brexit referendum added to the difficulties, leading to the liquidation of the business. However, this moment of crisis became a turning point. "I learned a lot about liquidation and then bought the rights to everything using my PayPal account for about £5,000. From there, the business has really grown."
Sustainability and ethical fashion are integral to Percival’s ethos. "We don’t promote sustainability separately; I believe it should be baked into the brand itself," Gove asserts. This involves continuous learning and improvement in sustainable practices, from packaging to sourcing. "All our EU cotton is GOTS certified, and although cotton from China is different, the certification ensures it is a lot stronger. Fashion is one of the most confusing supply chains to clean up, but as a small brand, you do what you can."
For Gove, the joy of running Percival lies in designing and working with a creative team. "I love designing, crafting the vision of the brand, and deciding how our pieces should look and feel. I also love the team. We have about 25 people now, and it's a real selection of individuals who are really creative, autonomous, and great at decision making."
"Every day is bonkers, but I wouldn’t change a thing."
