By Caroline Huckeba
From the social architecture of hotels to hand-finished leather and unconventional silhouettes, Haderlump is reimagining the relationship between clothing, craftsmanship, and identity.
Fashion has always correlated with appearances. What we wear can determine how we are perceived, where we belong, and sometimes how much space we feel entitled to occupy. For Berlin-based label Haderlump, however, clothing is about more than making an entrance.
Founded in Berlin, Haderlump approaches fashion as an extension of the self, describing its garments as a form of armor: something that can protect, empower, and reveal. Under the creative direction of Johann Ehrhardt, the label draws from historical references, architectural forms, and unconventional interpretations of everyday dress. Its collections occupy an interesting space between rebellion and refinement, where traditional tailoring meets unexpected proportions and familiar materials are given entirely new contexts.
Rather than treating clothing as something separate from the person wearing it, Haderlump considers the relationship between the two. The result is a wardrobe that feels expressive without being confined to any single idea of what confidence should look like.
ATRIUM
WHERE FASHION MEETS SOCIAL ARCHITECTURE
For Spring/Summer 2027, Haderlump turns its attention toward an unexpected setting: the hotel. Titled ATRIUM, the collection takes its name from the central courtyard of an ancient Roman home, a space designed to draw light and nature into the building's interior. The word also shares its origins with the human heart, specifically the atria, the chambers through which blood passes before traveling further inward. It is an appropriate starting point for a collection concerned with entrances, interiors, and the social structures that determine who gets access to which spaces.
The concept is particularly personal to Ehrhardt, whose inspiration came from his experience training as a waiter. Hotels are fascinating social institutions. They promise hospitality and comfort while operating through carefully maintained hierarchies. There are guests, employees, concierges, bellmen, and people whose entire purpose is to make someone else's experience feel effortless. Each person occupies a different position within the same environment.
Photos by Debora Spanhol
Presented at Berlin's Hotel Adlon Kempinski during Berlin Fashion Week, the collection brought this idea into its physical surroundings. The presentation featured 28 distinct characters, including a concierge, a bellman, and a nightwanderer, exploring the relationships between uniforms, identity, and institutional spaces.
The garments reflect this tension between formality and disruption. Transparent white mohair coats introduce a sense of lightness, while floor-length dresses, voluminous skirts, and elaborate tailoring evoke the grandeur of traditional hotel interiors. Elsewhere, wrinkled blazers, intricate button constructions, shawl collars, and hooded robes complicate familiar silhouettes. The references extend into the materials themselves. Waxed denim, crushed cotton twill, tweed, and swirling jacquard fabrics create contrasts between polished surfaces and deliberately unfinished textures. Even the smallest details carry elements of the collection's inspiration: hotel keys become closures and decorative motifs, while silver cutlery informs the sharper lines of certain designs.
Rather than reproducing the appearance of hotel uniforms, ATRIUM examines the social codes behind them. It asks what clothing communicates before someone has even introduced themselves.
Ready-to-Wear
A WARDROBE WITH CHARACTER
That interest in identity carries into Haderlump's ready-to-wear collection, where conceptual design meets the practical experience of getting dressed.
The collection encompasses everything from outerwear and tailored separates to knitwear, dresses, bags, and accessories. Familiar wardrobe staples are approached with a slightly unfamiliar sensibility. A jacket might feature exaggerated sleeves or unexpected wrinkling; a shirt becomes more architectural through its construction; a skirt introduces movement through layering and asymmetry.
There is a recurring interest in proportion throughout the collection. Silhouettes are rarely entirely straightforward, with considered volume, unusual detailing, and distinctive finishes giving otherwise recognizable pieces their own personalities. The designs feel particularly interested in the space between structure and movement, allowing garments to maintain their shape without appearing overly restrictive.
Photos by Marc Alldinger
Craftsmanship is central to this approach. Haderlump designs and produces its collections in its Berlin atelier, working extensively with second-hand and deadstock fabrics. The brand's name itself has an interesting history: Haderlump once referred to ragpickers and traveling traders who collected discarded textiles and gave them another life. It is a history that speaks directly to the label's interest in material reinvention.
For Haderlump, this is not simply about revisiting old materials. It is about considering what they might become through a different design perspective. The brand's commitment to longevity also extends beyond production, with garments made to order in its Berlin-Kreuzberg atelier and complimentary lifetime repairs offered to customers.
Photos by Marc Alldinger
A Study in Red
THE WRINKLED LEATHER JACKET
Among the label's more recent releases, the Red Leather Wrinkled Jacket makes a particularly striking impression.
A return of Haderlump's signature Wrinkled Jacket in a new colorway, the piece takes an already distinctive silhouette and introduces a saturated dark red finish. Its elongated sleeves create a naturally bunched effect, while rounded construction and a curved button stand give the jacket its recognizable shape. The result is a piece that feels simultaneously familiar and unconventional, with the leather's texture doing much of the talking.
The finish is just as considered as the silhouette. Developed in exclusive collaboration with an Italian heritage tannery in the Campania region, the leather undergoes a custom washing process to achieve its distinctive appearance. Design, construction, and sewing are then completed entirely in-house at Haderlump's Berlin atelier.
Photos by Nick Martinelli
Beyond the Surface
There is a certain consistency to the way Haderlump approaches its work. Its Berlin atelier provides a physical foundation for that experimentation, allowing historical references and unconventional ideas to translate into garments through hands-on craftsmanship. The use of deadstock and second-hand textiles also gives the brand's interest in reinvention a material dimension, rather than leaving it entirely within the realm of concept.
Ultimately, Haderlump's appeal lies in its understanding that getting dressed is never entirely separate from the experience of being seen. A garment can function as protection, self-expression, or an invitation to reconsider the expectations attached to appearance. With ATRIUM, its evolving ready-to-wear wardrobe, and the return of its Wrinkled Jacket in red, the label continues to explore those possibilities, one carefully constructed piece at a time.